Yellow Foot Tortoise 5-6"

SEGREST_MASTER

$ 265.00 

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An insulated shelter, such as a doghouse outfitted with a ceramic heat emitter connected to a thermostat, can provide shelter for cooler nights. The shelter temperature should be above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a substrate of cypress mulch or sphagnum moss in the shelter, and occasionally mist it to keep up the humidity.

Adults should also be provided with a large, shallow water bowl for drinking and soaking. If there is just one animal, it should be big enough for the tortoise to fit. For larger groups it should fit two or three tortoises at a time. A water level no higher than the gular, a section of the plastron under the chin, is ideal. Anything deeper could drown a tortoise. Mud wallows are also enjoyed.

If adult red-foots or yellow-foots must be kept indoors during winter months, the most practical enclosure is a tortoise table, which is nothing more than a big wooden box minus the lid. One for an adult red-foot should be at least 6 feet long by 4 feet wide. One for an adult yellow-foot should be at least 8 feet long by 4 feet wide. Use cypress mulch or sphagnum moss as a substrate, and use heat and UVB-emitting bulbs to replicate a spring-summer environment.

Both inside and outside enclosures should be at least 3 inches taller than the tortoises are long. For example, a 12-inch-long tortoise needs walls at least 15 inches high to prevent escapes. If a vertically standing tortoise can get its legs over the top, the wall probably isn’t tall enough.

Raising Little Feet
Most hobbyists keep hatchlings indoors. Accommodations can include small cement-mixing trays or plastic storage boxes for enclosures. Prone to dehydration, hatchlings need a humidity around 70 to 80 percent. Only moist sphagnum moss should be used as a substrate until they are at least 6 months old. When hatchlings get older, some peat moss, topsoil and play sand can be mixed in. An appropriate mix is 70 percent peat moss, 15 percent topsoil and 15 percent sand.

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