Motoro Stingray Med


$ 324.97 

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Typical Tank setup: Filtration is one of the most important aspects of a ray set-up. A large and efficient biological filter is needed to cope with the amounts of biological waste produced by an active, predatory fish of this size. Dim lighting is preferable, although once settled in most rays will also be active under brighter conditions. Plants that require rooting in the substrate will be eaten. Use river sand as this will give a lovely natural look.

Recommended Minimum Aquarium Capacity: 265 gallon / 1000 litre

Compatibility: Rays have to be among the top predators in the habitats they live in nature and are unsafe to keep with most other species. On the contrary they also seem to prefer a quiet life and will often fail to thrive when kept alongside very aggressive or territorial companions. The best tank mates are large enough not to be eaten, peaceful and ideally occupy the upper parts of the tank. Some cichlids, such as Oscars work well. Plenty of enthusiast’s arowanas with their rays, and in a spacious tank this can be a very remarkable combination.

Temperature: 68 – 88 Deg. F / 20 – 29 Deg. C

Water chemistry: pH 6.0 – 7.5

Feeding: Wild rays feed primarily on other fish and invertebrates, including worms and crustaceans. They’re active fish with a high metabolic rate and as such will need feeding at least twice a day. They’re also notoriously big eaters and it’s going to cost you a lot of money to keep even a single ray in good health. In general an exclusively meaty diet is preferable, although some will also learn to accept dried foods.

Sexing: Rays are easy to sex. Males have a pair sexual appendage known as “claspers”, one on each pelvic fin. These are used to inseminate the female when mating and are clearly visible, appearing as finger-like extensions extending backwards from the inside of the fin. In young males they’re much smaller, but can still be seen if you look closely.

Breeding: Rays can be picky when it comes to choosing a mate. Simply buying a pair of rays and putting them together will not guarantee a successful pairing. The ideal way to obtain a pair is to buy a group of juveniles, housing them in a huge tank and allowing them to select their own partners.

The spawning act itself is quite brief, lasting only a few seconds. Fertilisation occurs internally, the male inserting one of his claspers into the cloaca of the female before releasing his milt. Following a successful mating event the male should stop harassing his partner.

In captive rays generally takes between 9-12 weeks. During the latter stages the developing young can sometimes be seen as a visible lump rising from the posterior end of the female’s back, although in well-fed specimens this can be tricky to spot. It’s essential to feed the female in sufficient quantities during this period as she will expend a lot of energy providing for her pups, and her appetite will increase significantly.
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